A Sustainable Christmas

At the two Michelin-starred R-Haan, executive chef Chumpol Jangprai goes back to his time in Europe for his festive menu.

Fresh off the back of being appointed as “Sustainable Food Ambassador for FeedUp@UN”, chef Chumpol’s new menu is called “Sustainable R-Haan Sambrub” and is, by far, the best I’ve had at R-Haan. Moving away from straightforward Thai served in a modern style, chef Chumpol has added a bit of European flair to the menu.

Begin with “Welcome To Thailand”, which are four snacks. North Excursion is represented in a Spicy minced duck salad with herbs done Lanna style; Central Thai Visit is a Golden crispy river prawn cake; E-sarn Journey is a 24-month fermented fish from Korat baked with Cheese and black galingale; and the Southern Wander is a Spicy Mae Klong mackerel salad with rice filled with betel leaf.

Each course of the festive menu goes by a greeting number, for eg “Greeting 1”, and each has a name. “Greeting 1: sea to the mountain” is a spicy Bangtaboon crab salad served with Thai avocado and a fresh vegetable salad. Since it’s the season, it is paired with a bubbly. The “Sea Sand Sun” is live abalone from the eastern coast of Thailand. A favourite is the “Paradise Island”, which is a plant-based dish though it doesn’t taste like one! Grilled Phuket lobster with tom yum bisque is served with a plant-based “meat” and micro coriander.

The “Sweet and Sour Twist” of Grilled Thai duck breast with longan honey, Singha Park passion fruit sauce, yellow chilli and Ratchaburi organic fig brings the flavour of the chilli minus the heat. “Crunchy Merry Xmas” comes in the form of grilled sea grouper belly with salt fish sauce served with highland brown rice.

The “Meat Lover Boxing Day” is a choice between a charcoal-grilled Korat Wagyu A5 served with five festive mushroom chilli paste or a red grouper served with the same chilli paste. Taking a break between the single serves and the main course is the “One Moment Please” palate cleanser of savoury karonda fruit with a bubbly. Yum!

For mains or “Heaven In Thailand”, indulge in a traditional masaman with grilled Kamphaeng Saen beef shank or a Kurobuta pork. Each choice is served with a new brown rice pot pie, the pastry of which is delicious, and mixed herbs.

The “Infinity Sweet Of Life” ends the meal with fresh young coconut milk ice cream, the coconuts of which come from Ban Phaeo in Samut Sakhon; Thai crispy pancake with Wang Nam Khiao lavender and Mountain taro custard with Chiang Mai chocolate.

“Happy New Year 2021” are petite fours, which are the auspicious New Year orange, Sukhothai dried rice ball with dates (yum, yum, yum), lavender macaron and a monthong durian darathong.