Vogue Paris celebrates its 100th anniversary without its editor-in-chief and under the tight control of New York
The French edition of Vogue magazine, Vogue Paris, has kept the Parisian fantasy alive for a century and is at the heart of trends, from Dior’s post-war “new onion” to the liberation of morals in the 1960s. of the last century, AFP reported.
Ironically, the French edition of the fashion bible celebrates its 100th anniversary with a major exhibition at the Palais Galleria, a fashion museum in Paris, but without its editor-in-chief and under the increased control of New York.
Emmanuel Alt was fired in May after ten years at the helm of Vogue Paris and has no deputy.
In an effort to cut costs, the owners of the Conde Nast group, which publishes Vogue magazine, have placed the French edition under the direct control of the influential Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of the American edition.
“We had no idea it would happen when we started preparing” on the topic,
shared Sylvie Lecalier, curator of the Vogue Paris 1920-2020 exhibition, delayed by a year due to the coronavirus pandemic.
Since its launch, Vogue Paris has been more liberated and bohemian than the American edition, which is published in New York. This is where most of the style of the 20th century is defined.
The rivalry between Vogue and Frog – the name given to the French edition (frog – frog in English) marks the history of the famous magazine.
In the beginning, there were no major differences between the American and French editions. Over time, they become more and more, Lekalie explains.
In 1929, the idea arose to give a “true Parisian identity” with an intellectual flavor to the French edition.
In the 1930s, Paris was a place for experiments to find new photographers, “because there are none in New York.”
It was also crucial for Vogue Paris to defend French haute couture against Americans and against American clothing after World War II.
“This bohemian Parisian environment is the complete opposite of the New York office environment,” she said.
“It’s very stimulating for everyone: Vogue Paris nurtures new perspectives, the American edition of Vogue puts a little common sense, more commercial stuff,” she added.
“With the latest changes, we don’t know where we’re going. This is the end of a story,” said Sylvie Lecalier.
